Re my camera

[lensviews]

Hi all you pro photography buffs. I was hoping someone can tell me what they know about my camera. It is a Lumix Panasonic DMC-FZ35 digital (NOT DSLR) with a Leica Lens Optical 18X zoom f=4.8mm to 86.4mm (35mm equivalent 27mm to 486mm) I have had it for 2yrs and I am still learning how to use all the features effectively. I have submitted some good pics. for viewing but not always as crisp & sharp as I would like. Thanks to Ken's awesome tutorials I am learning good tips about focusing to gain clear shots. I do use a tripod for still pics, but birds in flight are almost impossible. I pan & shoot as best I can. I have ordered a lens accessory kit (teleconversion & close-up ND & PL filters which may extend my focal ability. What's your honest opinion?

[butterfly]

Hi
I am not and never will be a "pro" or someone that has formal training, so I am probably not the best person to help you with this. But, here I go anyway. First of all, after reading about your camera in several reviews and seeing a lot of sample images online, I am convinced that it is a great camera. You have an F 2.8 - 4.4 with a Leica lens, wow! Use the lowest apeture setting that you can in order to get sharp pictures. That will probably never be f2.8 but we hope to use the lowest possible. If you put that teleconverter on your camera, it will bring the aperture reading up and decrease the amount of light available. It will give you a closer view of your subject though so it is up to you what you want because you already have a good zoom length, but you definitely will get a better view of your subject.. F 2.8 lenses are great for sharpness. You also have an image stabilizer which will help you when you are hand holding the camera. You have to practice, practice, practice. Learn the different settings on your camera by experimenting with them in the field. What works in low light will not work in bright sunlight. Keep your iso high in low light but the higher it is the grainier it is, so it will not be sharp if it is grainy. Keep your iso low in bright light. In other words low iso gives you less light into the camera, high iso gives you more light into the camera. High speed is good for flight shots and moving images but will darken your photos. The close up filter is what it implies for close ups of things cloe to you such as flowers or insects but not far away subjects. The PL filter will reduce light in very bright conditions which will not give you what you were hoping for. I rambled too much but remember, no camera or photographer gets every photo perfect with consumer quality cameras. We take hundreds of photos every week and toss most of them into the recycle bin. That is the beauty of digital cameras. Just read your manual, learn the settings that work for you in all kinds of conditions and take as many pictures as you can. You have a great camera and we like what you have posted so far. Joanne

[martin]

Hi
Reading your post you ask for an opinion, not sure what exactly are you looking for an opinion on? can you be a bit more specific?

The problem with opinions though is that everyone has one or a different one. :/

you can check CNET for a review on your camera

reviews.cnet.com/digital-cameras/panasonic-lumix-dmc-fz35/4505-6501_7-33765520.html

B & J advise covers a lot, if your looking on advise to get better sharper shots with your camera I can add my 2 cents as well.

First off your fighting shutter lag ( .4 to .6 sec) from focusing to shooting with the camera so shooting a moving object such as a bird in flight will be a bit harder. Try to keep the subject parallel to the lens and track the bird, do not stop tracking as you press, also pressing the shutter moves the camera a bit.

As B&J says practice and experiment to see which settings work best.

Try shooting on a continuous burst mode if you have it that might help, also try your sport setting for moving objects, you will sacrifice quality though.


As with every camera it takes a while to get used to, and what settings are best and when you should use them.

I don't know if any of this has helped you, I can tell you I own a good P&S and a DSLR and I prefer the DSLR for bird shooting especially if they are moving the P&S is fine for static objects and large moving.

[lensviews]

Thank you Joanne, excellent advice. I will definitely keep experimenting and improving my techniques. Thanks Martin, I also appreciate your observations & suggestions. I have burst and will try it out. I really want to capture an eagle in flight. Was on Prairie Central this morning & got some good shots but not in flight. This afternoon my wife & I walked round Blue Heron Reserve. That is a good place to practice as is Sardis Park.
You never know what you can do until you try right?

[butterfly]

Another quick hint: remember that a digital camera takes a bit of time to focus. Remember to press the shutter button half way to allow the camera to focus before gently pressing the button all the way down. Try to remain steady and don't jab the button in a rush. But you probably already do that. Looking forward to more of your photos, Joanne

[Gord]

I think time is one of the biggest. The more you do the better they will come.

When you feel ready, use manual exposure rather than automatic. Automatic works sometimes in nature photography but not nearly as much in taking pictures of people and so forth where you can control the lighting better. It's tough to tell a Bald Eagle to move to better light but a person usually will if asked nicely (or bribed). Going manual is a bit of a bigger step, but it will help when taking pictures against dark or light backgrounds as well as allow you to get higher shutter speeds which is probably part of the challenge you're facing. It does not take long to get an idea of shutter speed and aperture setting for specific situations. The light meter that most cameras have helps as well so long as the meter is not getting 'fooled' by a large bright sky behind your subject.

That being said, a shutter priority setting might be a good 'next step' as it will allow you to pick the fastest shutter speed you can depending on the available light and will automatically pick a aperture to match. Still, with shutter priority you cant just pick 1/500th or what ever and expect it to work if the light is not there. Light is the key to photography and the camera will respond to it. I hope Im not confusing the issue.

Hold the camera steady and 'follow through' on moving subjects even after you push the button. Dont stop moving as you push the button. Even when the shutter clicks you should still be moving with the subject.

Martin, Bruce and Joanne give great advice and Im repeating them mostly anyway.

[butterfly]

Another thing to think about is to keep the sun behind you if you can, it helps with lighting. Like Gord said, light is the most important part of your photo.

[kenpossum]

Sounds like a little one on one might be helpful here. Give me a call (858-0544) when you are in the Sardis Park area and I will guide you through your camera settings while we capture some birds in flight. You can really do it. (You buy the coffee at Timmies later when we are warming up.) Lots of good advice above but one minor point - the sharpest apertures are not f/22 or f/2.8 but f/8 -f/11. I failed physics so I really can't explain why.