Those Dang Tripods

[kenpossum]

I will be the first to admit that I don't have all the answers when it comes to bird photography. I bow to many on here that are more experienced, and this post is a good example.

Recently at Reifel, I had an opportunity to photograph a Northern Hawk Owl. For most of the time the dozen or more experienced birders waited patiently for the bird to present itself. When it did move, it was sudden. There was such a flurry of activity, followed by a lot of 'bird cussing'. "Dang, I was so close", "Got away from me" etc. All the while, I was easily able to get off 6-7 shots in flight. Two examples below.





The ease that I was able to get my flight shots can be attributed to a couple of factors. 1. My lens was a 80-400mm (on my body a 120-600mm). I did not have the focal length fully extended. Many were using a zoom to 500mm which often came out to 750mm because of the C-MOS ratio. At 750mm it is difficult to find a fast moving object in your viewfinder. Second, the majority were using heavy duty Gitzo tripods, none of which had a ball head reducing the ability to track a quick moving subject. The large tripods were necessary for the 20 pound lenses they were using. These huge f/2.8 lenses are beautiful lenses, but they require a very sturdy and heavy tripod, and a heavy duty ball head. No one had the right combo and as a result they struggled to get the flight shots they wanted. Some hand held and used their IS feature to get the captutes. I think most got some flight shots after 3-4 attempts, but it was difficult.

Conclusion? To get birds in flight shots with a large f/2.8 lens IS very hard to do, and often may require (but not necessarily so) equipment that is large, heavy, expensive, and not always easy to find. I know some of you do it, time and time again, and I am amazed and awed. Hand holding is not a bad option provided you have the light, and a good IS feature. Again, I am amazed and awed by your results.

Don't feel bad if you have a 200-300mm lens that is not huge. Small may be a blessing. You can use a lighter weight tripod with a standard large ball head, and finding your subject in the lens is not as difficult.

Either option will result in your getting and loosing some shots. Don't feel bad, as that seems to be the nature of bird photography. There are no perfect solutions, and EVERYTHING in photography s a trade-off.

I would be interested to learn how those with the huge f/2.8 lenses get those fantastic, sharp, flight shots, with or without a tripod that I see all the time on here. I have a lot to learn as well. Share your secrets.

[oldfulica]

Very nice flight shots Ken. You have to be patient and camera ready to get shots like that. I was at the Hawk Owl location on Thursday and waited patiently for a flight shot. I never succeeded. I had the lens on a tripod because the bird was perched. I saw it was getting nervous and I was in the process of taking the lens off the tripod in anticipation of flight and missed my opportunity. It dropped for a mouse? in front of me and immediately took off again. It flew right at the phalanx of photographers of which I was a part, and nearly brushed my leg as it flew by. Very frustrating but exciting.

I find my 300mm F4 really nice for flight shots. I like to keep the settings as follows when I am just looking for subjects;

IS on
Shutter speed 1500+
Auto focus on
Auto ISO
Exposure compensation plus at least 2/3
Auto focus area on a setting that is called AF point Expansion. This is like spot focus but also picks up points around the center.

These settings will allow for an unexpected flight shot if an opportunity suddenly arises such as this Stellar's Jay today.

[kenpossum]

Great shot Len. When using film, it was frowned up to shoot at a high ISO due to the increased grain. With digital, I do not find the increased noise at ISO 800 to 1600 a major factor, and often it enables you to shoot at speeds of 1/1000 sec. or higher.

I use the same spot focus when tracking a bird in flight. My Nikon D90 has a normal (narrow) or wide spot focus which would be choice to what you describe. I use the same setting. My D90 also has a 3D focus to track moving objects, but I can't get it to work on the lens I use for birding. Dang.

[murraybrown]

Even though Gord has told me several times what settings he uses, I never seem to remember them when I'm actually out there and shooting.

The reason I mention this is because I can't think of anyone who consistently posts such glorious shots to this forum. Both in terms of colour and particularly, sharpness.

Obviously having a professional quality lens helps a lot but I know there's more to it than that.

I appreciate you guys letting us in on your tips and suggestions and am eager for more.

For myself I have been relying far too much on the auto capabilities of my D-60 and 70-300 VR and have decided that now in the new year I'm taking over!

Murray

[oldfulica]

Jan 3, 2011 16:32:46 GMT -8 murraybrown said:

Even though Gord has told me several times what settings he uses, I never seem to remember them when I'm actually out there and shooting.

The reason I mention this is because I can't think of anyone who consistently posts such glorious shots to this forum. Both in terms of colour and particularly, sharpness.

Obviously having a professional quality lens helps a lot but I know there's more to it than that.

I appreciate you guys letting us in on your tips and suggestions and am eager for more.

For myself I have been relying far too much on the auto capabilities of my D-60 and 70-300 VR and have decided that now in the new year I'm taking over!

Murray

Thanks very much Murray. Remember those settings I mentioned are for flight shots. I have a fast camera so you might not get the same results and a slower shutter speed may be more appropriate for your camera. For stationary shots in good light my exposure compensation might be -1/3 or more depending on circumstances.

[davepeppar]

Most of us use our cameras as tools for identification. On a cruise last Feb in the Caribbean I saw a bird from my little port hole. I grabbed my camera and headed up on deck. I first thought it was a Northern Gannet but after about 50 shots I got this one.



It was a Masked Booby. A great bird.

The bird moved all over the place. I set my lens at about 200mm and hand focused. No chance to auto focus. Just keep shotting

Next October my wife and I will be taking a cruise from New York to Rio through the Panama cannal. Lots and lots of pelagic birds which I have no experience with. I will be using photography for identifing these birds.

DaveP

[kenpossum]

That's a great shot Dave. WOW! This may also help. I recommend never using the AUTO setting on your camera. The camera is controlling your image, not you. Most of my bird shots posted on here have been in MANUAL mode, but I also have used Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority on occasion. In almost all cases, I am using auto-focus but I have a couple of fixed focus lenses (300mm and 500mm) that I have to use manual focus with.

I will make an announcement soon about a UFV photography course I teach that will help anyone understand and master their camera controls. The Continuing Studies brochure just came out today, and it's best I read it first.

[kenpossum]

For the larger f.2.8 lenses finding and using a tripod is a real problem. The weight of those lenses ie. about 20 lbs makes them not suitable to the normal size tripod that is used with less weight lenses, and for other types of photography. A heavy duty ball head is key, and Manfrotto - my favourite make does not make one that can work with a 20+ lb lens and camera. Benro and Induro do make ball heads that will do the job. These ball beads on a Gitzo set of legs will work - but the combined weight rules out taking these tropods on long walks. At least for most people. I almost died taking my Manfrotto 055 up to the top of Mt Cheam one day. Almost needed a helicopter to get me down. Thus for the large 2.8 lenses, I can see where handholding at a high ISO may be the most practical option. Can we get a comment from anyone who does use a tripod with a f/2.8 lens? What type of head? Make? Weight? Gym membership recommended? Shurpa?

[kenpossum]

This is a copy of a comment I made to one of Len's posts. Len has repeatedly shown the need to be versatile in using a tripod and handholding.

"I now believe that both techniques have their place in bird photography. Handholding by a novice may not always get the best results, but in the hands of an experienced bird photographer, the results are often exceptional. The key is knowing when handholding is the best choice, and the other camera settings necessary to make it work. I really appreciate the advice given to me by yourself, Joanne and others on here that have broadened by knowledge and perspective on this subject. Can't argue with success and as the old adage goes, you can teach an old dog new tricks!"

[theanimal]

Probably not the best birding lens by far, and unfortunately didn't have my tripod with me...(travelling light; and not good for birding...usually I have my 190XB (too light for my 70-200mm VRII - saving up for a Gitzo GT5541LS). I was walking with my D300s/50mm f/1.. I know the GT5541LS and Wimberley WH-200 Gimbal is probably massive overkill for the 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII, but hey, I'm getting it with the "future" in mind. Gotta dream, don't I? ;D

But handheld...at f/1.8 on a Red-Tailed Hawk. not the best image in the world by any means, but it managed to get some detail, at least enough to identify it.



Len, that Steller's looks like it's turned into a MISSILE. ;D

Dave, love that shot of that "masked booby". ;D
Let that be a lesson to anyone...take your birding LENS with you at all times.

[martin]

Look into Jobu, they make gimbals and they are a Canadian company, heres the link www.jobu-design.com/gimbals.html

I use the BWG-Pro Gimbal, ball bearings nice rotation, check out on you tube too.
But the Black Widow Heavy Duty mk II is a bit lighter and cheaper, did I mention that they are a Canadian company

The smaller handhold lens are eaiser for in flite tracking, I like my 100-400, but the gimbal head is a must for the big lens tracking.